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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 9:39 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 9:26 pm
Posts: 7
Location: United States
I have glued my sides together in a mold and all appears ok,but when I take
the body out of the mold the shape of the body is a little out,Is this normal
or should the body have kept its shape.It is a OM model guitar.My mold I got
from guitar jigs.com and it is very nice. Im new at this and any answers
would be thankful.Bill


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 9:52 pm 
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Location: United States
First name: Lance
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Hi Bill, Welcome to the OLF!

Your rims will flex until you get the linings, or Kerfings installed. It will be a bit more rigid then.
Its usualy a good idea to leave your sides blocked in your mold until after your back and top have been glued on, this will help to insure that your sides stay perfectly vertical to the top and back.

Hope this helps LanceK38905.286724537

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 11:20 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

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Location: United States
Thanks guys,I am learning as I go ,I do have some reference material to go
by.The one thing I didnt do is when I shaped my front and end block I kinda
did it by eye(trail and error) maybe I should have done the pull sandpaper
tecnique.Oh well alls ok except as described as above.Thanks......Nice
guitars Lance!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 12:50 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
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Location: United States
I agree with Hesh. I use a turnbuckel system like this



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 2:22 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

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for several years I used 1/4" fiberglass rods in an aluminum tube with a simple compression nut setup for tensioners (is this a word ) between the cauls. In fact it has been only 6 months ago I switched to turnbuckles


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 5:12 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 9:26 pm
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Location: United States
Im doing a luthier mercintile kit bolt on neck.The sides were prebent but did
not fit my mold quiet right.So I bent the sides at the waist a bit and that
helped alot,Yes keeping the front and rear blocks are important.Hers some
pics.Thank you all. 2006-07-07_141141_guitar3.jpg">


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 5:48 am 
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Location: United States
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Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro


Posted for Bill LanceK38905.6260763889

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:34 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

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Location: United States
Thanks Hesh,Yes I will put a cap on.By the way nice guitars Hesh!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:39 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 5:23 am
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Bill,

If you are using the LMI kit I assume it came with my instructional DVD. I show a nice spreader made from a wing nut, aluminum tube and threaded rod. This will help the sides conform to the mold correctly. Nice guitar so far. Good luck!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 1:33 pm 
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[QUOTE=ToddStock]   

[/QUOTE]

Love your wallpaper, Todd.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 3:11 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Bill, your bracing is very neat!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 4:49 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2006 4:35 pm
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Location: United States
Bill your bracing is very neat and clean. You could never get a job at Gibson. I have seen some of their old top brace jobs. Lots of squeeze out and smears on the top's. I guess they figured if you cant see it it doesn't hurt. Keep up the good work.Michael Shaw38906.0764236111


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 9:36 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 9:26 pm
Posts: 7
Location: United States
I did use titebond for the two main X braces but I didnt like how it dries
yellow then I got the glue from LMI that dries clear ,Its a polyvinyl glue that I
really like.Thanks so much,Bill


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 10:19 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 9:26 pm
Posts: 7
Location: United States
Ok I see,I think I may have a problem with my front block,When I did the
slight radius on the glue side I did it by using a sanding block and would
check it for fit. I think it might be slightly off in alignment,maybe I should
have done a pull sandpaper teqnique.How do you make sure the front block
is in proper alignment? (lateral) so when the neck is attached it centers up in
the bridge area?Thanks Bill...... Nice set up hesh,Did you use a band saw to
make your body blocks. Heres a pic of my back      2006-07-08_071928_gu itar2.jpg">


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 4:39 am 
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Walnut
Walnut
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Joined: Sun Jun 25, 2006 9:54 am
Posts: 16

Here's what I do.

I saw something like it somewhere and it stuck in my memory. I think it was a Huss and Dalton thing. It seems to work pretty good!
Brent


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 10:20 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

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Location: Canada
Brent, i really like this kind of set up! Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 1:25 pm 
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Hey Brent,
It looks like you're doing something I contemplated for a while:
Is that mold mounted to a stand, so that the whole thing can be flipped over, top to back to top again?
It's a cool idea, and if that's what you're doing, some more pix would be great.

Steve

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 3:12 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 11:49 am
Posts: 115
Location: United States
Where does everyone get their forms? I'm liking the forms. I've been using the plywood with movable posts, but the forms look more sound.

Art


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 3:15 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 9:26 pm
Posts: 7
Location: United States
Hi,Art,I got mine from guitar jigs.com,Bill


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 5:11 am 
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Walnut
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Joined: Sun Jun 25, 2006 9:54 am
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Steve -Yes I mount my molds on this stand. I designed it so I could glue linings on one side then filp and glue the other without waiting

I have six different molds so I made it ajustable

This is how I mount them

I also found it useful for gluing tops and backs.


I also learned I can "drive the bus" on it!!


Art - I get my molds from Home Depot

Brent


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